A delicately flavored steamed dish much enjoyed by the Cantonese and Fukienese. The egg white lightens the pork, and the bamboo shoots or water chestnuts add just a bite to the otherwise smooth texture. The sauce glistens on the stuffing, giving a transparent effect.
In Fukien, this dish is made from fresh winter bamboo shoots, but in the West we have to be content with the canned product, which, fortunately, retains much of its characteristic crispness.
Tender yet still crisp pepper stuffed with pork that has a suggestion of the taste of shrimp. The black bean sauce, especially with chili, adds another dimension in taste.
In special Cantonese establishments, a whole pig is roasted to a rich red color in a specially built oven. A similar effect can be achieved at home by using a piece of pork from the middle section of the belly, with the skin or rind left on. Never score the skin and never use pork that has been frozen, because the skin will not get crisp enough to form the distinctive crackling of the dish.
Don’t be put off by the name of this dish: it is characteristic of the Szechwanese sense of humor to visualize minced pork over cellophane noodles as ants climbing up a tree, even though you may not wish to conjure the same image. Whatever the mental picture, the marinated pork cooked in a spicy sauce lends color and flavor to the otherwise bland cellophane noodles, which do, however, contribute an interesting texture to the overall effect.
Some Chinese dishes have a time-honored formula for the ingredients, and this Northern dish, consisting of golden needles, cloud ears, pork and egg, is one of them. Mu-shu is the Chinese name for golden needles, which, in this dish, rank in equal importance with the pork. Mu-shu is also said to refer to the egg pieces, because their yellow color reminds one of the tinge of the golden needles.
Since preserved Szechwan vegetable is a regional product and pork is the national Chinese meat, it is hardly surprising that a standard Szechwan dish combines the two. In fact, this simple stir-fried dish is popular family fare all over China, eaten as much in the South as in the North.
As a contribution to Chinese gastronomy, this dish is arguably as notable as Peking Duck, and it’s certainly easier to make. When roasted, this fragrant and succulent pork looks reddish brown with slightly burned edges, especially around the fat. Delicious hot or cold, it’s a versatile ingredient and can be stir-fried with vegetables, or mixed with fried rice and used as a topping on noodles.
It is a misconception to think that every Hunan dish is spicy hot. On the contrary, many are not, and this dish, that derives its name from the glutinous rice that shines like little pearls on the pork balls, is one of them.
The preserved vegetable, red-in-snow, lends a special fragrance to the pork in this dish. As in many other Shanghai or Eastern stir-fried dishes, neither garlic nor scallions are used.
This dish, popular in both Szechwan and Peking cuisines, either as family fare or for entertaining, can be made one day ahead. It is so named because the pork is simply boiled in a pot of clear tap water, or “white water,” as the Chinese call it. True to form, the Szechwan-style sauce evokes a wide range of tastes and aftertastes; the Peking counterpart is laden with garlic.
To many people, sweet and sour pork is synonymous with bad Chinese takeout food: lumps of chewy pork wrapped in thick batter, covered with a gluey and sickening sweet and sour sauce. However, when well made—crisp outside yet tender inside, topped with a well-balanced sweet and sour sauce—this is one of the most appetizing Cantonese dishes.
One of the most popular Szechwan pork dishes, it is cleverly produced by combining two very different cooking methods: boiling and stir-frying.
The combination of meat and vegetables is a regular occurrence in Chinese cooking. Even though a small amount of meat is used, it nevertheless adds so much taste and interest to the vegetables that it is worth the effort.
Duck stuffed with glutinous rice is popular with most Chinese, irrespective of the region they come from. The stuffing can be made a day in advance and refrigerated, but if it is, bring it out so that it will be at room temperature before being stuffed into the duck.
This Chinese recipe uses traditional bean curds and pork in simmering fish stock creating a wonderful mix of flavors.
I was introduced to pasta fagioli when I was in my early 20s and living on Cape Cod. I worked at a small, family-run Italian gourmet shop. It was my first insight into great Italian cooking.We made everything from scratch every day. I learned how to prepare all of these new and interesting foods that I had not grown up eating. The first time I tasted pasta fagioli—an Italian soup made with macaroni, beans, and pork—I knew that my dad would love it because it contains all of his favorite flavors. It practically defines hearty and satisfying. Customers sometimes come in and tell me that my version tastes so much like their grandmother’s that I must be Italian. I always think of that as the ultimate compliment.
I had never tasted a smoked shoulder of pork until my mother-in-law, Rosemarie, served it to me. One bite made me realize that I had been missing out all of those years! I became hooked and had to try making it on my own. A shoulder of pork is also called a “picnic roast,” and what a picnic it can make. I like to use the meat in sandwiches with black bread and mustard. Any kid who likes a hearty, old-fashioned bowl of pea soup is sure to appreciate this thick and hearty version.
New Englanders have been making fish chowder ever since the 1700s, though the recipe has evolved over time. Some early versions called for red wine or ketchup before preferences changed to a creamy, white combination of fish, potatoes, salt pork, and seasonings.My version doesn’t stray far from tradition. I like to use haddock, but you can use any other white fish (such as cod or mackerel), as long as it has a bit of firmness to it. Fish chowder is a rather rustic soup. It is best served in large mugs with plenty of salty oyster crackers on top. I especially like it on a cool, rainy day.
