New Englanders have been making fish chowder ever since the 1700s, though the recipe has evolved over time. Some early versions called for red wine or ketchup before preferences changed to a creamy, white combination of fish, potatoes, salt pork, and seasonings.My version doesn’t stray far from tradition. I like to use haddock, but you can use any other white fish (such as cod or mackerel), as long as it has a bit of firmness to it. Fish chowder is a rather rustic soup. It is best served in large mugs with plenty of salty oyster crackers on top. I especially like it on a cool, rainy day.

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons butter
1 large Spanish onion, peeled and diced
2 ribs celery, diced
2 small pieces (about 2 ounces each) salt pork
4 cups red new potatoes, peeled and diced into 3/4-inch cubes
6 cups fish stock or clam juice
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 bay leaves
2^1/2 pounds haddock, cut into bite-size pieces
2 cups heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Oyster crackers, for serving

Directions:

In a stockpot melt the butter over medium high heat. Add the onion, celery, and salt pork. Sauté for 10 minutes or until the onion turn a light golden color. Add the potatoes and sauté for 3 minutes more. Add the stock, thyme, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are just tender, about 20 minutes.

Add the haddock and gently stir for 5 minutes. Add the heavy cream and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the parsley. Remove the salt pork, if desired, or leave in for more flavor. Remove the bay leaves. Serve with plenty of oyster crackers.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.