Some Chinese dishes have a time-honored formula for the ingredients, and this Northern dish, consisting of golden needles, cloud ears, pork and egg, is one of them. Mu-shu is the Chinese name for golden needles, which, in this dish, rank in equal importance with the pork. Mu-shu is also said to refer to the egg pieces, because their yellow color reminds one of the tinge of the golden needles.

Ingredients:

1⁄2 ounce (15 grams) cloud ears, reconstituted
1 ounce (25 grams) golden needles, reconstituted
10 to 12 ounces (280 to 350 grams) lean pork
4 eggs
8 tablespoons peanut or corn oil
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon thick soy sauce
1⁄4 teaspoon sugar
3 or 4 large scallions, sliced diagonally, white and green parts separated
1 tablespoon Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry
2 teaspoons sesame oil or to taste

For the marinade:
1⁄4 teaspoon salt
1⁄2 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon thin soy sauce
1 teaspoon thick soy sauce
6 turns white pepper mill
1 teaspoon Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry
1 teaspoon potato flour
1 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon peanut or corn oil

Directions:

Drain the cloud ears (for extra slipperiness, soak in boiling water for another 20 to 30 minutes). Squeeze out excess water but leave damp.

Drain the golden needles; soak in boiling water for another 20 to 30 minutes for extra tenderness. Drain and squeeze out excess water but leave damp. Split each one lengthwise with the fingers.

Slice the pork into thin, even-sized rectangular pieces. Put into a bowl.

Prepare the marinade: Add the salt, sugar, soy sauces, pepper, wine or sherry, potato flour and water to the pork. Stir to coat. Let marinate for about 20 minutes. Stir in the oil. Beat the eggs lightly with 1 tablespoon of the oil and 1⁄4 teaspoon of the salt.

Heat a wok over high heat until smoke rises. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and swirl it around. Add the cloud ears and stir for about 30 seconds, lowering the heat if they jump in the air and make popping noises. Add the golden needles and continue to stir and turn until very hot. Season with 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, the soy sauce and the sugar. Transfer to a warm dish and set aside.

Wipe the wok and reheat until hot. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and swirl it around. Pour in the egg and, sliding the wok scoop or metal spatula to the bottom of the wok, fold and turn until the egg forms into lumps. Transfer to a warm plate and set aside. Wash and dry the wok.

Reheat the wok until smoke rises. Add the remaining oil and swirl it around. Add the white scallions, stir and let them sizzle for a few seconds. Add the pork and turn and toss in rapid succession for about 1 minute or until partially cooked and turning opaque. Splash in the wine or sherry around the side of the wok, continuing to stir and turn as it sizzles. Return all the other ingredients to the wok.

Stir and mix for another minute, so that the pork is thoroughly cooked, the egg firmer and all the ingredients piping hot. Add the green scallions. Transfer to a warm serving dish. Sprinkle with the sesame oil and serve immediately.

Serves 6 with 3 other dishes.