In special Cantonese establishments, a whole pig is roasted to a rich red color in a specially built oven. A similar effect can be achieved at home by using a piece of pork from the middle section of the belly, with the skin or rind left on. Never score the skin and never use pork that has been frozen, because the skin will not get crisp enough to form the distinctive crackling of the dish.

Ingredients:

3 pounds (1.3 kilograms) pork belly in one piece, without spareribs
about 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons red food coloring (optional)

For the marinade:
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon ground yellow bean sauce
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
1⁄2 teaspoon thin soy sauce
1 teaspoon five-spice powder

For the dips:
thick soy sauce
hoisin sauce

Directions:



Wipe the pork skin or rind dry. Using a fork with 10 close-set, sharp tines, or a similar metal piercing instrument, pierce the skin rind vigorously and repeatedly, for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until it is entirely covered with fine holes. Rub the salt all over the skin.

Lightly brush some of the food coloring over the skin, if used.

Make horizontal cuts on the flesh side, about 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) apart and 1⁄2 inch (1 centimeter) deep. Prepare the marinade: Mix together the salt, sugar, yellow bean sauce, hoisin sauce, soy sauce and five-spice powder in a small bowl.

Using a clean brush, smear as much marinade as possible on the flesh side, particularly in the grooves. Do not smear any marinade along the sides of the pork or they will be burned when roasted.

Using 2 butcher’s meat hooks, hang the pork up in a windy place for about 8 hours, or overnight, until the skin is very dry. The drier the skin, the better the crackling when roasted.

Place the pork, skin side up, on a rack in the top half of the oven over a pan of hot water to catch the drippings. Roast in a preheated oven at 400°F (200°C) for 15 minutes and then reduce the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C) for about 1 hour. Do not open the oven door at all until it is time to test whether the pork is done. Test by piercing the meat with a skewer or chopstick; if it goes in easily and the juices that run out are clear and not pink, the pork is done. The skin will have turned into excellent crackling.

Transfer the pork to a carving board to rest for a few minutes. Carve into 1⁄2- to 1-inch (1- to 2.5-centimeter) pieces with a cleaver or a sharp, serrated meat knife. Transfer to a warm serving dish and serve.

Serves 4 to 6 as a main course.