Don’t be put off by the name of this dish: it is characteristic of the Szechwanese sense of humor to visualize minced pork over cellophane noodles as ants climbing up a tree, even though you may not wish to conjure the same image. Whatever the mental picture, the marinated pork cooked in a spicy sauce lends color and flavor to the otherwise bland cellophane noodles, which do, however, contribute an interesting texture to the overall effect.

Ingredients:

3 ounces (85 grams) cellophane noodles
6 ounces (175 grams) pork loin
4 tablespoons peanut or corn oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped fine
3 or 4 scallions, cut diagonally into long slices, white and green parts separated
1 to 1 1⁄2 tablespoons hot soybean paste or chili sauce
2 teaspoons Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry
1 cup clear stock
salt to taste
thin or thick soy sauce to taste

For the marinade:
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon thick soy sauce
4 turns black pepper mill
1 teaspoon Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry
1⁄2 teaspoon potato flour
1 tablespoon water
2 teaspoons sesame oil

Directions:

Put the cellophane noodles in a large bowl and pour over them about 3 1⁄2 cups of boiling water. Let soak, preferably covered, for a minimum of 20 minutes.

Chop fine or mince the pork. Put into a bowl.

Prepare the marinade: Add the salt, soy sauce, pepper, wine or sherry, potato flour and water to the pork. Stir vigorously for 1 or 2 minutes, in order to give the pork the right consistency. Let marinate for about 15 minutes. Blend in the sesame oil.

Drain the cellophane noodles and make a few cuts with a pair of scissors to make them shorter and easier to handle.

Heat a wok over high heat until smoke rises. Add the oil and swirl it around.

Add the garlic, then the white scallions. As they sizzle, add the soybean paste or chili sauce and stir a couple of times. Add the pork and, sliding the wok scoop or metal spatula to the bottom of the wok, turn and toss for about 1 minute, breaking up any lumps at the same time. Splash in the wine or sherry around the side of the wok, continuing to stir and break up any lumps.

When the sizzling dies down, add the noodles, stir and fold to blend. Add the stock, bring to a boil, add the salt and soy sauce to taste, then lower the heat and continue to cook, covered, for about 5 minutes.

Remove the wok cover. Most of the stock should have been absorbed. Add the green scallions, then scoop to a warm serving dish. Arrange the pork all over the top of the noodles. Serve hot.

Note: If you cannot tolerate hot soybean paste or chili sauce, use thick soy sauce instead. This dish reheats well over low heat. Serves 6 with 3 or 4 other dishes or 4 as a first course.