Black bean sauce and clams go together for the Chinese the way horseradish and roast beef do in the West.

What I like most about Manhattan clam chowder is its zesty broth, loaded with bits of chewy clams. I like to make my version spicy and serve it with a side of garlic bread. Rhode Islanders serve a similar dish called Rhode Island red chowder. It is basically the same chowder as Manhattan with a different name.

New England clam chowder can be found on almost every menu from Connecticut to Maine. It is even sold at Boston Red Sox games at Fenway Park. Locally-caught clams, chunks of white potatoes, and cream are just a few of the ingredients that give this dish its personality. The chowder is one of our most popular soups, as it’s true New England soul food. It warms you up all winter, but I also think it’s a perfect summer treat. Take a thermos to the beach, wait for the sun to go down, then pour it into mugs. The little bit of sand that sneaks onto your spoon only enhances the texture.

If you’re tempted to walk up to a seafood counter and pick out one thing from each display, try this stew. A take-off on French bouillabaisse, it combines six kinds of seafood in a tomato and saffron-enhanced broth. There’s not any racy story behind its name. I was just trying to emphasize its robustness.

Along the Atlantic shore, stuffed clams often are called stuffies on clam shack menus. If fresh clams aren't available, substitute 1/2 cup shopped canned clams and use clam juice in place of the liquor. Then, bake the clam mixture in large mushroom caps.