In Chinese, wheat gluten literally means the “sinewy essence” of wheat-flour dough. For Buddhist vegetarians in China, it is the substitute for meat and is thus an indispensable ingredient of their vegetarian dishes. Wheat gluten is sold in its cooked state in China, Taiwan and Hong Kong, but as yet it is not available elsewhere; neither is it a satisfactory canned product. Fortunately, it is not difficult to make, so do try it.

Ingredients:

2 pounds (900 grams) wheat flour
1 tablespoon salt
2 1⁄2 cups cold or tepid water
peanut or corn oil for deep-frying

Directions:

Sift the flour into a large deep bowl. Add the salt. Gradually add the water and work into a dough, which should be firm but not hard.

Knead the dough. If you use your hands, knead, punch, throw and pull it as much as possible. If you use a dough hook fitted to a food mixer, knead for 4 to 6 minutes, or the maximum amount of time directed in the instructions. In either case, knead until the dough is very, very smooth and elastic, so that the maximum amount of gluten can be produced.

Cover the dough and let rest for about 1 hour.

Put the dough in a colander and stand it in the sink with the plug in. Turn on the cold water faucet and start pressing and squeezing the dough with both hands. The idea is literally to wash off all the floury substance. When the water becomes too milky, change it and continue washing. After about 12 minutes, the water will become almost clear, being slightly cloudy rather than milky. The dough will have become a soft and spongy mass in the colander—this is the wheat gluten. Wash for 1 or 2 more minutes, then squeeze out excess water.


Pull with your fingers to break the gluten lump into 4 portions. Pull each portion into 10 pieces. Put the 40 pieces on a plate with a little space between each one so that they will not stick together.

To cook the gluten pieces, either boil or deep-fry them. To boil: bring plenty of water in a large saucepan to a boil. Add 20 gluten pieces, continue to boil for 4 or 5 minutes, until they float to the surface, indicating that they are cooked.

To deep-fry: half fill a wok or deep fryer with oil. Heat to a temperature of 375°F, (190°C) or until a cube of stale bread browns in 50 seconds. Put in the gluten, 1 piece at a time (10 can be deep-fried together). They will sink to the bottom, then come up to the surface, puffing bubbles all over. Turn them over repeatedly for about 2 minutes until light brown in color. Remove and drain on paper towels.

Note: Boiled gluten keeps well in the refrigerator for about 2 days; deep-fried gluten, for 7 days. Both freeze well. Yields about 10 to 12 ounces (280 to 350 grams) of gluten.