In Szechwan, many dishes emulate the fragrance of fish because the condiments used to flavor them are the same as those traditionally used to flavor fish. This flavor is achieved by blending Szechwan chili paste with garlic, ginger and scallions in oil and then allowing this sauce to impregnate the main ingredients cooked in it. The finishing touch is the addition of wine, sugar and vinegar, which enhance the tastes and aftertastes, the hallmark of Szechwanese cooking. This dish is delicious served hot or cold.

Ingredients:

1⁄2 ounce (15 grams) cloud ears, reconstituted
2 eggplants, about 11⁄2 pounds (675 grams)
peanut or corn oil for deep-frying
1 1⁄2 tablespoons peanut or corn oil
4 or 5 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped fine
1⁄4 inch (5 millimeters) fresh ginger root, peeled and chopped fine
3 scallions, cut into 1-inch (2.5-centimeter) sections, white and green parts separated
1 to 1 1⁄2 tablespoons Szechwan chili paste
1 tablespoon Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry
1 teaspoon salt
1 1⁄2 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon thin soy sauce
1⁄2 teaspoon potato flour, dissolved in 3 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon rice or white wine vinegar

Directions:

Drain the cloud ears and cut into narrow strips.

Peel alternate strips of the eggplant skin, lengthwise. (If all the skin is peeled, eggplants shrink too much when cooked.) Slice each eggplant lengthwise into 4 or 5 pieces according to diameter, then lengthwise again into strips and then cut crosswise into several pieces.

Half fill a wok or deep fryer with oil. Heat to a temperature of 350°F (180°C), or until a cube of stale bread browns in 60 seconds. Put in all the eggplant and deep-fry for 2 minutes. Remove and drain well on paper towels. (This step can be done a few hours ahead.)

Heat a wok over high heat until smoke rises. Add 1 1⁄2 tablespoons oil and swirl it around. Add the garlic, which will sizzle and take on color almost instantly, then add the ginger and white scallions, stirring a few times. Stir in the chili paste and add the eggplant and cloud ears. If the cloud ears make a cracking sound, reduce the heat. Sprinkle with the wine or sherry and stir in the salt, sugar and soy sauce to mix. Add the well-stirred dissolved potato flour and the green scallions, stirring as the sauce thickens. Remove from the heat. Sprinkle with the vinegar and quickly stir thoroughly before transferring to a warm serving plate. Serve immediately.

Serves 6 with 3 other dishes.