This is a favorite summer soup of the Hunanese, who appreciate the cooling effect that the ginger brings on a humid day.

Ingredients:

1⁄2 ounce (15 grams) wood ears, reconstituted
6 ounces (175 grams) lean pork
2 to 3 tablespoons peanut or corn oil
1 to 2 ounces (25 to 55 grams) fresh ginger root, peeled and sliced into slivers
1 tablespoon Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons thin soy sauce
4 cups clear stock
3 scallions, cut into 1⁄2-inch (1-centimeter) pieces

Directions:

Drain excess water from the wood ears but leave damp. Break up the larger pieces. Slice the pork into strips, about 1^1⁄2 by 1⁄2 inch (3.5 by 1 centimeters) and 1⁄10 inch (2 millimeters) thick.

Heat a wok over high heat until smoke rises. Add the oil and swirl it around. Add the ginger and stir a few times. Put in the pork and, sliding the wok scoop or metal spatula to the bottom of the wok, turn and toss for about 30 seconds. Add the wood ears, lowering the heat so they do not make explosive sounds or fly out of the wok. Stir and turn for another 30 seconds.

Add the wine or sherry, salt, soy sauce and stock. Bring to a boil. Spoon off the foam that surfaces. Lower the heat, cover and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. Taste for seasoning, then add the scallions and immediately remove from the heat. Transfer to a large warm soup tureen or individual soup bowls and serve hot.

Makes 6 servings.