One of the most popular Szechwan pork dishes, it is cleverly produced by combining two very different cooking methods: boiling and stir-frying.

Ingredients:

1 pound (450 grams) pork in one piece, 2 1⁄2 to 3 inches (6 to 7.5 centimeters) wide (middle section of belly with alternating lean and fat layers is ideal)
1 leek, trimmed
2 or 3 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced thin
3 tablespoons peanut or corn oil
salt to taste

For the sauce:
1 1⁄2 tablespoons hot soybean paste
1 tablespoon thick soy sauce
1⁄4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry

Directions:

Neatly remove the spareribs, if any, from the pork. Put the whole piece, rind and all, in a saucepan, cover with boiling water and simmer over moderate heat for about 20 to 25 minutes. The pork is not expected to be thoroughly cooked. Remove and leave to cool. Store in the refrigerator for about 2 hours to firm up the meat. It can be left overnight, covered.

When ready to cook, remove the rind and slice crosswise into very thin pieces, not more than 1⁄10 inch (3 millimeters) thick, if possible. Cut the leek lengthwise into 2 and wash thoroughly to remove any grit caught between the leaves. Cut diagonally into 1⁄2-inch (1-centimeter) sections.

Prepare the sauce: Mix together the paste, soy sauce, salt, sugar and wine or sherry in a small bowl and set aside. (Those who like it really hot and spicy can use more hot soybean paste.)

Heat a wok over moderate heat until hot. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and swirl it around. Add the leek and stir-fry with the wok scoop or metal spatula for about 2 minutes. Season with salt to taste and transfer to a warm plate. The leek should be moist but not swimming in liquid. Drain if there is any excess water.

Dry the wok and reheat over high heat until smoke rises. Add the remaining oil and swirl it around. Add the garlic, and as soon as it sizzles and takes on color, add the pork. Stir and spread the pieces into more or less a single layer, so that the fat fries in the oil. Turn over, pressing gently, to fry until the fat is transparent. Lower the heat if necessary; if excess fat oozes out, spoon from the wok and discard.

Pour in the sauce and stir to let it permeate the pork. Add the leek and stir until the sauce is almost absorbed. Transfer to a warm serving plate. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6 with 2 or 3 other dishes.