Shrimp paste has a strong, almost unpleasant, odor, and squid is very bland. However, when stir-fried together, with garlic, this peasant dish, although an acquired taste, can delight even the most sophisticated palate.

Ingredients:

1 large squid, about 1 1⁄2 pounds (675 grams) or body pouch pieces only
2 teaspoons thin soy sauce
1 teaspoon potato flour
4 tablespoons water
peanut or corn oil for deep-frying
1 1⁄2 tablespoons shrimp paste
3 to 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped fine
1 ounce (25 grams) fresh ginger root, peeled and chopped fine
6 scallions, cut into 1⁄2-inch
(1-centimeter) diagonal slices, white and green parts separated
1 tablespoon Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry

Directions:

Cut off the head of the squid from the body pouch and discard. Cut off the eyes and discard. Rinse in cold water, then cut the tentacles into 11⁄2-inch (3.5-centimeter) sections.

Slit the body pouch open lengthwise as far as the innards. Pull these out and discard. Remove the transparent bone and peel off the reddish skin; discard. Rinse in cold water. Turn the body pouch inside out. Lay it flat on a board and, using a sharp knife, score in a crisscross pattern. Cut into pieces about 2 by 1 inches (5 by 2.5 centimeters).

Immerse the squid briefly in plenty of boiling water. As soon as the pieces curl up, pour into a colander and rinse under cold running water. This makes the squid crisp and tender. Drain thoroughly and dry. Mix together the soy sauce, potato flour and water. Set aside.

Half fill a wok or deep fryer with oil. Heat until just hot, about 300°F (150°C). Add the squid and let it “go through the oil” for about 10 seconds. Remove with a hand strainer and set aside. Pour all but about 3 tablespoons of the oil into a container and save for other uses.

Dilute the shrimp paste with 1 tablespoon of water, stirring to blend. Reheat the oil until it smokes. Add the garlic, and when it sizzles, add the ginger. Stir a couple of times and add the white scallions. Stir a few more times, then pour in the shrimp sauce. Cook for a few seconds, stirring.

Return the squid to the wok. Sliding the wok scoop or metal spatula to the bottom of the wok, turn and toss for about 10 to 20 seconds, or until thoroughly hot. Splash in the wine or sherry around the side of the wok. When the sizzling dies down, add the well-stirred dissolved potato-flour mixture. Continue to stir while this thickens. Tip in the green scallions. Transfer to a warm serving plate. Serve immediately.

Note: Steps 1 to 6 can be prepared several hours in advance. Instead of 1 large squid, small squid can be used. Serves 4 to 5 with 3 other dishes.