To sauté or shallow-fry is one of the basic Chinese methods of cooking fish; the technique is explained in this recipe for mackerel. Another fish that lends itself to sautéing is pomfret, which abounds off South China, India and Southeast Asia. Red snapper, red mullet and whiting, among others, are also delicious sautéed.

Ingredients:

1 large mackerel, about 1 1⁄2 to 1 3⁄4 pounds, (675 to 790 grams) cleaned, with head left on
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
8 ounces (225 grams) peanut or corn oil
6 thin slices fresh ginger root, peeled
1⁄2 inch (1 centimeter) fresh ginger root, peeled and cut into silken threads
4 to 6 scallions cut into small rounds
For the sauce:
1 tablespoon thin soy sauce
1 tablespoon thick soy sauce
1⁄2 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry

Directions:

Halve the mackerel, which at this weight is probably long, crosswise. Rub the salt all over the skin, crevices and cavity. Let stand for about 15 minutes.

Prepare the sauce: Mix together the soy sauces, sugar and wine or sherry.

Heat a wok or a heavy flat frying pan over high heat until smoke rises. Pour in the oil, tip the wok carefully to swirl it around the sloping edges, then pour all but about 3 tablespoons into a container. Reheat the oil, add the ginger slices and fry until brown, then discard. Lower the heat, wait until the oil is less hot and then add both pieces of mackerel. Fry for about 5 minutes, to brown the skin. Turn over and brown the other side for about 5 minutes. Turn over again and continue to shallow-fry for about another 3 minutes, adding about 1 tablespoon of oil around the edges of the fish. Repeat with the other side.

Pour the sauce over the fish and sprinkle on the silken threads of ginger. Cover and continue to cook for about 3 minutes. Sprinkle on some of the scallions and cook, covered, for a few more seconds. Transfer to a warm serving plate and pour the sauce from the wok or frying pan over the fish.

Put the 2 pieces of mackerel side by side or join to form a “whole” mackerel. Sprinkle the remaining scallions on top and serve.

Serves 2 as main course; 4 with 2 other dishes