The tender wonton wrappers, deep-fried to a crisp before being dunked in the soup, lend special character to this dish. The color of the ingredients, suspended in the clear soup, is especially attractive.

Ingredients:

peanut or corn oil for deep-frying
60 wonton wrappers, halved and folded in 2
8 ounces (225 grams) Cantonese roast duck with some skin, diced
10 ounces (280 grams) cooked crabmeat, broken into chunks
4 ounces (115 grams) canned bamboo shoots, sliced or diced thin
8 ounces (225 grams) canned straw mushroom, drained and halved or quartered
9 cups prime or clear stock
1 to 2 teaspoons salt pepper to taste
1 to 2 tablespoons thin soy sauce
12 scallions, cut diagonally into 1⁄2-inch (1- centimeter) pieces, white and green parts separated

Directions:

Half fill a wok or a deep fryer with oil. Heat to a temperature of about 350°F (180°C), or until a cube of stale bread browns in 60 seconds. Add a batch of wonton wrappers, about 20 at a time; they will sizzle and expand at once. Transfer to paper towels before they turn brown, using a hand strainer or perforated spoon. Repeat until all are done.

Put the duck, crabmeat, bamboo shoots and straw mushrooms into the stock and bring to a boil. Add the salt, pepper and soy sauce. Add the white scallions and, finally, the wonton wrappers. (It is always better to add the wonton wrappers at the last moment so that they retain their crispness.) Dunk them with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and add the green scallions.

Serve immediately, either from a communal bowl or in individual bowls.

Serves 10 to 12. Wonton wrappers can be deep-fried ahead of time and, if kept in an airtight container, will remain crisp for more than a week. With some salt sprinkled on them, they are quite a novelty to serve with drinks. Cantonese roast duck is available in some Cantonese restaurants, whole or in portions.