In Hong Kong and China, some restaurants specialize in a very sophisticated dish, Winter Melon Pond. A whole winter melon of the perfect size is partially hollowed, filled with such delicacies as crab meat, diced duck, pork, Chinese mushrooms and bamboo shoots and then steamed for hours to produce the most delectable soup. But it is not a practical dish to make at home. This recipe, however, is, and the melon is succulent in the soup.

Ingredients:

1 small winter melon or part of a large one, about 2 3⁄4 to 3 pounds (1.25 to 1.35 kilograms)
4 cups prime stock
1 quantity chicken velvet
salt to taste
2 ounces (55 grams) best ham, ideally Chinhua or Virginia, chopped fine

Directions:

Cut the winter melon into pieces that are easy to work with. Seed only, leaving the pulpy flesh alone. Cut off the hard skin and discard. Dice all the pieces, including the pulpy parts. Put the winter melon and stock in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, covered, for about 25 to 30 minutes, or until the melon is tender and looks transparent.

Put the chicken velvet into a bowl and add several spoonfuls of boiling broth. Stir to blend, then pour into the boiling soup. Stir the soup to break up any lumps of the chicken velvet as it cooks and turns opaque. Taste, and add salt if necessary.

Pour the soup into a large warm soup tureen, sprinkle with the ham and serve.

Note: If desired, about 8 ounces (225 grams) cooked white crabmeat can be added to the soup after adding the salt. Fuzzy melon, though not the traditional ingredient for this soup, is a satisfactory substitute. Serves 8.