This hearty soup updates the recipe that many of us remember, unhappily, as a bowl of brown mush. Instead of those blah button mushrooms, I decided to use portobellos, shiitakes, chanterelles, and enokis. Each type contributes a different texture. I also enriched the basic stock with tomato paste and red wine. Best of all, I cook the barley for no more than an hour, which leaves it with some spring in its bite.

Instructions:

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1^1/2 cups diced onions
1^1/2 cups sliced or diced carrots
1/2 cup diced celery
3 large portobello mushrooms, diced
1 cup sliced shiitake mushrooms
1 cup sliced chanterelle mushrooms
1^1/2 cups pearl barley
2^1/2 quarts chicken or beef stock
2 cups Burgundy wine
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried basil
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 cup enoki mushrooms
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

Heat a stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and garlic. Stir quickly, then add the onions, carrots, and celery. Sauté for 5 minutes. Add the portabellas, shiitakes, and chanterelles. Sauté for 5 minutes more. Add the barley, stock, Burgundy, oregano, basil, and tomato paste. Stir well to combine. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Remove from the heat. Stir in the enoki mushrooms and season with vinegar, salt, and pepper.

Makes 10 to 12 servings