The various cooking processes used in this dish may seem too time-consuming, but the duck is at once made crispy and moist, smoky and aromatic.

Ingredients:

1 scant teaspoon saltpeter
1 oven-ready duck, about 5 pounds (2.25 kilograms)
1 3⁄4 tablespoons salt
6 ounces (175 grams) all-purpose flour
4 ounces (115 grams) brown sugar
4 tablespoons black tea leaves
2 pieces fresh ginger root, each
1⁄2 inch (1 centimeter), peeled and bruised
2 large scallions
1 whole star anise (8 segments)
l 1⁄2 teaspoons Szechwan peppercorns
2 tablespoons Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry
peanut or corn oil for deep-frying
1 tablespoon sesame oil

Directions:

Rub the salt thoroughly over the skin of the duck and inside the cavity, then rub the cavity only with saltpeter. Leave the duck in a cool place for about 10 hours or overnight. Rinse the duck, especially the cavity, in plenty of hot water. Wipe dry. The duck is now ready for smoking.

Line a large wok with heavy-duty foil and place the flour, sugar and tea in the bottom. Place a metal trivet or bamboo stand on top. Place the duck on that, breast side up, and make sure that there is a gap between it and the smoking ingredients, to allow free circulation of smoke. Put the wok cover on tightly.

Turn the heat on high until you see smoke coming out, then adjust it, making sure that plenty of smoke continues to come out. Smoke for 15 minutes, turn the duck over and smoke, breast side down, for another 15 minutes. Remove from the heat.

When cool enough to handle, transfer to a large heatproof dish, breast side up. Put half of the ginger, scallions, star anise, peppercorns and wine or sherry into the cavity; put the other half on the breast.

Steam in a steamer or another wok for 1 to 1 1⁄4 hours. When cool enough to handle, transfer the duck to a rack and let cool. Remove and discard all the condiments. Dry with paper towels.

Half fill a wok or deep fryer with oil. Heat to a temperature of 375°F (190°C), or until a cube of stale bread browns in 50 seconds. Carefully lower the duck into the oil, breast side down, and deep-fry for 3 or 4 minutes, or until brown.

With a wooden spoon or spatula in one hand and another inside the cavity, turn the duck over and deep-fry the other side until brown. Hot oil can also be spooned over the skin. Remove to a chopping board. Brush the sesame oil over the breast. The duck can be carved either in the Chinese way (see page 39) or by your usual method. Serve warm.

Note: If the duck is prepared in advance, it can be reheated in a preheated oven at 300°F (150°C) for 30 to 45 minutes, or until it’s hot and the skin is crisp. Serves 6 with 3 other dishes.