Heirloom tomatoes are so special and delicious that it is worth the wait until their arrival at the market in late August. A seller at my local Farmers’ Market has won all kinds of awards for her heirloom tomatoes. She describes each one like one of her children. I always visit her booth first because I want to get the first pick. She never lets me in early, even when I am wearing my chef ’s uniform. The minute the market opens, I rush up and fill my basket. This simple salad dresses the tomatoes up to their best advantage. It would go well with grilled steak, especially rib eye.

Ingredients:

5 pounds assorted heirloom tomatoes
1/2 cup sliced Vidalia onion rings
1/4 cup toasted pine nuts
1/2 bunch basil leaves, torn into pieces
1/3 cup crumbled blue cheese
2^1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

Cut the tomatoes into different shapes, including quarters and slices, and place on a large serving dish. Arrange the onions on top. Sprinkle with the pine nuts, basil, and blue cheese. Drizzle with the vinegar and oil. Generously season with salt and pepper.

Makes 6 to 8 servings. At one time, heirloom tomatoes—tasty, old-fashioned varieties—were almost bred out of existence by large producers who cultivated sturdy (and cardboard-textured) tomatoes that could be shipped without bruising. Thanks to the efforts of dedicated gardeners, heirloom seeds have been preserved and are now widely available. The tomatoes come in odd shapes and sizes, in colors ranging from magenta to zebra-striped. Beautiful they are not, but their flavor is incomparable.