Dried scallops used to be relatively cheap in China and Dried scallop soup was the poor man’s Shark’s fin soup. However, times have changed, and this soup, with its contrast in texture between the tender scallops and the crisp bamboo shoots, is now one of the most sought-after first courses, second only to Shark’s fin and Bird’s nest soups.

Ingredients:

10 dried scallops, about 4 ounces (115 grams)
4 ounces (115 grams) canned bamboo shoots, thinly sliced
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons potato flour, dissolved in 4 tablespoons water
1 large egg, lightly beaten with 1⁄4 teaspoon salt

Directions:

Rinse the dried scallops, rubbing with your fingers to get rid of the white filmy substance sometimes found on their surface. Put into a large saucepan and add about 5 cups of water. Bring to a boil and skim off the white foam that surfaces. Reduce the heat and simmer for 13⁄4 to 2 hours, until the scallops are tender and the liquid has reduced to about 31⁄2 cups. Check the water level from time to time and add more if necessary.

Using a perforated spoon, transfer the scallop pieces to a dish. Shred, using a knife and fork or the fingers. Be sure to pick out and discard the hard muscles, which are whole and easily recognizable. Return the shredded scallops to the saucepan.

Stack the bamboo slices, a few at a time, and cut into very thin strips similar to the length of the scallops. Add to the saucepan. (The procedure up to this point can be done several hours in advance.) Just before serving, bring the soup to a gentle simmer. Add the salt and well-stirred dissolved potato flour, stirring as it thickens.

Slowly pour in the beaten egg, either between the gap of 2 chopsticks or along the back of a fork, moving the chopsticks or fork in a circular motion at the same time. Remove from the heat and cover for 45 seconds, to allow the egg to set in tender flakes. Transfer to a warm soup tureen or individual soup bowls and serve.

Serves 4 to 6. The soup can be reheated over moderate heat.