A sweet and sour sauce goes especially well with deep-fried food, not just because it whets one’s appetite but, more important, because it counteracts any trace of grease. Such is, indeed, the case with fish. There are regional variations and personal preferences, but mainly a sweet and sour sauce is a mixture of vinegar and sugar, balanced by salt, and made more interesting by the addition of other condiments. Try this one, and then concoct your own.

Ingredients:

1 red snapper or gray mullet, about 2 1⁄4 to 2 1⁄2 pounds (1 to 1.15 kilograms), cleaned with head left on
peanut or corn oil for deep-frying
1 egg yolk
about 3 tablespoons cornstarch

For the marinade:
1 inch (2.5 centimeters) fresh ginger root, peeled and chopped fine
1 teaspoon Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry
1 teaspoon salt

For the sweet and sour sauce:
3 dried Chinese mushrooms, reconstituted
2 ounces (55 grams) small peas
2 teaspoons potato flour, dissolved in
2 tablespoons water
4 tablespoons rice or wine vinegar
4 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons tomato ketchup
1 teaspoon salt
1 1⁄2 teaspoons thick soy sauce
2 teaspoons Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry
1 cup water
4 tablespoons peanut or corn oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped fine
1 small onion or 3 shallots, skinned and diced
2 ounces (55 grams) canned bamboo shoots, diced

Directions:

If the wok in which the fish will be deep-fried is large enough (14 inches [35 centimeters] or more) leave the fish whole; otherwise, cut it in half. Make 2 or 3 diagonal slashes across the thickest part of both sides of the fish, taking care not to go right to the edges.

Prepare the marinade: Squeeze the ginger in a garlic press with 2 drops of water and mix the juice with the wine or sherry and salt. Rub both sides of the fish, including the crevices and the cavity, with the mixture. Let marinate for about 15 to 30 minutes. Discard any excess liquid.

Prepare the sweet and sour sauce: Drain and squeeze out excess water from the mushrooms but leave damp. Cut into small cubes. Cook the peas in boiling water for 2 minutes, drain. Mix together the dissolved potato flour, vinegar, sugar, ketchup, salt, soy sauce, wine or sherry and water. Heat a wok (if you have a second small one), or a saucepan, over high heat until smoke rises. Add 3 tablespoons of the oil and swirl it around. Add the garlic, then the onion or shallots and fry for about 1 minute, stirring. Add the mushrooms, peas and bamboo shoots. Stir the sauce mixture once more to blend, then pour into the wok or saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring continuously as it thickens. Set aside. Half fill a wok or deep fryer with oil. Heat to a temperature of 375°F (190°C), or until a cube of stale bread browns in 50 seconds.

While the oil is heating, brush the egg yolk over both sides of the fish, then sift the cornstarch over it, smoothing it for evenness. Lower the fish into the oil and deep-fry for about 7 or 8 minutes, or until the skin is crisp. Turn over carefully and deep-fry the other side for about the same time.


Remove with a hand strainer or perforated spoon and drain on paper towels. Transfer to a warm serving dish. If the fish has been cut into halves, put together to look whole again. Reheat the sauce until simmering, stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon of oil and pour over the fish. Serve immediately.

Serves 6 with 3 other dishes.