Clam chowder is undoubtedly the signature soup of New England, but lobster bisque is a close second. The early Yankees, ever frugal, used leftover lobster shells to make the stock.We finish our version with a few dashes of Tabasco sauce—just enough to give it some spark without overpowering the lobster flavor. Even though lobster bisque is always served hot, it seems to be most popular during the summer in Boston. At the nearby beaches, where the water is so cold your ankles shiver while your scalp sweats, there is nothing like a mug of hot bisque while you wrap yourself up in a towel to watch the sunset. All summer we pack many quarts of it for people to take to their cottages and boats. Tourists like it, too.

Instructions:

4 tablespoons salted butter
1 large Spanish onion, peeled and minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 carrots, peeled and sliced
2 ribs celery, minced
2 large potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks
8 cups lobster stock
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 cup dry white wine
2 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1^1/4 pounds cooked lobster meat, cut into bite-size pieces
1/3 cup brandy or cream sherry
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

In a stockpot melt the butter over medium high heat. Add the onion, garlic, carrots, and celery. Sauté for 12 minutes. Add the potatoes, lobster stock, tomato paste, and white wine. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are tender and soft, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove from the heat. Puree the soup in the pot using a hand blender or working in batches with a regular blender until very smooth. Stir in the cream, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce, lobster meat, and brandy or sherry. Season with salt and pepper. Place the pot back on the stove and simmer an additional3 minutes to heat through. Makes 8 to 10 servings.