This economical and healthy everyday dish is easy to make. It is as popular in Canton as in Shanghai, but the Cantonese use scallions, ginger and shrimp to heighten the flavor; in Shanghai they prefer just dried shrimp.

Ingredients:

1 ounce (25 grams) dried shrimp, rinsed
1 Chinese celery cabbage, about 2 pounds (900 grams)
3 or 4 tablespoons peanut or corn oil
4 scallions, cut into 1-inch (2.5-centimeter) sections, white and green parts separated
4 thin slices fresh ginger root, peeled
1⁄4 to 1⁄2 teaspoon salt

Directions:

Soak the shrimp in just enough boiling water to cover them, for 30 minutes or longer. Drain reserving the soaking liquid. Discard any wilted or hard outer leaves of the cabbage. Then put together similar-sized leaves. Chop crosswise into thin strips. Remove and discard the hard core.

Heat a wok over high heat until smoke rises. Add the oil and swirl it around. Add the white scallions, stir a couple of times, then add the ginger. As they sizzle, add the shrimp, which will “explode” when they touch the oil, releasing a mouth-watering fragrance. Stir the shrimp for a few seconds.

Add the cabbage and, sliding the wok scoop or metal spatula to the bottom of the wok, turn and toss for about 1 minute so that the cabbage will absorb the fragrance of the other ingredients. Adjust the heat if the cabbage begins to burn.

Pour in the shrimp water, season with the salt, cover and continue cooking for 1 or 2 minutes, or until the cabbage is tender yet still crunchy. Add the green scallions. Transfer to a warm serving plate and serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6 with 2 or 3 other dishes.