Here, the mashed bean curd is shaped into halved pear-shape pieces resembling the celebrated Chinese musical instrument the pi pa.
During the slow braising of this dish, the dark soy sauce, enriched by sugar, permeates the boiled gluten and dyes it red. The bamboo shoots give a contrasting texture to the spongy gluten and tender mushrooms. In keeping with the Buddhist tradition of vegetarian food, neither ginger, garlic, scallions, nor wine is used.
In Chinese, wheat gluten literally means the “sinewy essence” of wheat-flour dough. For Buddhist vegetarians in China, it is the substitute for meat and is thus an indispensable ingredient of their vegetarian dishes. Wheat gluten is sold in its cooked state in China, Taiwan and Hong Kong, but as yet it is not available elsewhere; neither is it a satisfactory canned product. Fortunately, it is not difficult to make, so do try it.
This is a classic Eastern vegetarian dish with a play-on-words Chinese title, which, literally translated, is Dry-braised two tung. The two tungs of the pun are tung-sun (winter bamboo shoots) and tung-ku (dried Chinese mushrooms).
In Szechwan, many dishes emulate the fragrance of fish because the condiments used to flavor them are the same as those traditionally used to flavor fish. This flavor is achieved by blending Szechwan chili paste with garlic, ginger and scallions in oil and then allowing this sauce to impregnate the main ingredients cooked in it. The finishing touch is the addition of wine, sugar and vinegar, which enhance the tastes and aftertastes, the hallmark of Szechwanese cooking. This dish is delicious served hot or cold.
Eight is a significant number for the Chinese, for in Buddhism, which for many centuries exerted great influence in China, there are eight treasures in life: pearl, lozenge, stone chime, rhinoceros horn, coin, mirror, books and leaf. The symbolism of these eight treasures is not lost in Chinese food: any dish comprising eight or more main ingredients can term itself an “eight-treasure” dish.
Ingredients:
3 or 4 ounces (85 to115 grams)
Chinese chives
6 large eggs
8 tablespoons peanut or corn oil
1⁄2 to 3⁄4 teaspoon salt
several turns pepper mill
Directions:
Pick over the Chinese chives, snip off and discard both the hard top ends and the wilted tail ends. Wash and dry them well. Cut into 1-inch (2.5-centimeter) lengths. Beat the eggs lightly in a large bowl with 1 tablespoon of the oil until well blended and frothy. Add the salt and pepper and beat a few more times.
Heat a wok over high heat until smoke rises. Add the remaining oil, swirl it around and heat until very hot. Add the Chinese chives, stir for about 20 seconds, then pour in the egg. Sliding the wok scoop or metal spatula to the bottom of the wok, keep turning and letting the egg go under to blend with the oil and chives. Continue in this way until all the egg is just set.
Remove from the heat and scoop the eggs-and-chives mixture to a warm serving plate. Serve immediately.
Note: A small bunch of chives can be used as a substitute for Chinese chives. Serves 6 with 2 or 3 other dishes.
A simple but refreshing soup that is also very healthy—a vegetarian’s delight.
Beet salads have become popular at Boston restaurants—even among diners who hated eating beets as children. The secret is oven-roasting the beets to bring out their natural, earthy sweetness. An assertive blue cheese or goat cheese stands up well to them. My version of beet salad uses two colors of beets for eye appeal and adds Granny Smith apple slices for a hint of sweetness. Honeylaced dressing made with fruit-flavored vinegar ties everything together.
The deep, fruity flavor of black fig vinegar is worth seeking out at a gourmet store or from a mail order source. The vinegar is sweetened with black fig juice. My favorite brand is Cuisine Perel fig vinegar. In a pinch, raspberry vinegar may be substituted.
There is nothing quite like the taste of a large, green salad with fresh, locally-grown vegetables. This one takes advantage of tender, buttery lettuce, bracingly crisp cucumbers, and juicy tomatoes that taste like distilled sunshine. There are not many rules when it comes to making this salad, but it is essential to thoroughly wash and dry all of the vegetables to remove dirt and other impurities. You may substitute or add a few of your own selections to the list of vegetables. Make sure to serve the salad well chilled to keep it crisp and refreshing.
Heirloom tomatoes are so special and delicious that it is worth the wait until their arrival at the market in late August. A seller at my local Farmers’ Market has won all kinds of awards for her heirloom tomatoes. She describes each one like one of her children. I always visit her booth first because I want to get the first pick. She never lets me in early, even when I am wearing my chef ’s uniform. The minute the market opens, I rush up and fill my basket. This simple salad dresses the tomatoes up to their best advantage. It would go well with grilled steak, especially rib eye.
I gave this recipe an ambitious name because I’ve eaten too many potato salads that are far from perfect—ruined by mushy potatoes, goopy dressing, and mayonnaise that dull the flavors. I start this salad with Yukon Gold potatoes, which have a built-in buttery flavor and don’t fall apart easily when cooked. Just after they finish cooking, I pour vinaigrette over them so they can absorb the flavor as they cool. The mayonnaise is just enough to hold the salad together. Chopped bell pepper, onion, and pickles add color and crunch. Eggs keep everything fluffy. You can feel proud to bring this salad to any picnic or barbecue.
It’s filled with color and flavor from the bell peppers, tomatoes, scallions, and red onions. The freshly-squeezed lemon juice and fresh mint give it a clean finish. Serve it plain or as a stuffing for pita bread. It also goes well with Homemade Toasted Pita Chips (see Syrian Chickpea Soup recipe).
We are always trying to create new and interesting sandwiches for our vegetarian customers. Roasting really enhances the flavor of the vegetables in this one. When served warm, the mix of zucchini, summer squash, and bell peppers makes a nice change from lettuce and tomatoes. These sandwiches are great for lunch on the go, as they are easy to handle and eat.
White peaches are some of my favorites, as each bite tastes like a great fruity wine. However, I use several different varieties of peaches for this soup so their flavors can blend. It tastes like a luscious peach cobbler.
It simmers fresh blueberries with fruit juice and wine, then purees them with sour cream and brown sugar.Maine blueberries are smaller and more tart than the cultivated kind, but either one will work in this recipe.
We planted and grew all of our own vegetables. A spectacular apricot tree supplied us with fresh fruit all summer. When we grew tired of eating plain apricots, I made this soup. It’s both tart and sweet, with a hint of ginger and a refreshingly silky texture. I like to serve it on a hot day, when you need a burst of sweetness and energy.
This versatile soup’s scarlet hue is always a conversation piece. Garnish each serving with a dollop of sour cream or crème fraiche to offset the color. Served hot, the soup makes a good first course for an entrée of duck or veal. It can also be served cold, presented in a glass serving bowl, or ladled into chilled red wine goblets. Garnish with fresh cherries with the stems still attached.
The intoxicating flavor and aroma of mangoes is probably what makes this our most popular fruit soup. One bite is simultaneously thick, creamy, and refreshing. I think of it as our sexiest soup. The flavor really depends on ripe mangoes, which should have yellowish-red skin and flesh that is soft but not mushy when you lightly press the outside with your finger. Buy them a few days in advance, when their skin is still slightly green, to make sure they are ripe when you make the soup.