A Yunnan steam pot is basically a pottery casserole dish about 8 inches (20 centimeters) in diameter and 4 inches (10 centimeters) high with a cone shaped chimney in the center of the bowl. The pot, with its tightly fitting lid, is placed in boiling water so that steam rises through the chimney to circulate inside and cook the ingredients. Chicken cooked in this way is tender and succulent, and the accompanying soup is pure and flavorful. The pot is available in some Chinese shops, but, in a pinch, a double boiler can be used.

Ingredients:

12 medium dried Chinese mushrooms, reconstituted
8 ounces (225 grams) best ham, trimmed of fat
1 oven-ready chicken, 3 to 31⁄4 pounds (1.3 to 1.5 kilograms)
1 to 1 1⁄4 teaspoons salt
4 to 6 turns white pepper mill
2 thickish slices fresh ginger root, peeled
2 scallions, quartered
1 tablespoon Shaohsing wine or medium-dry sherry
thin soy sauce (optional)

Directions:

Drain and squeeze out excess water from the mushrooms but leave damp. Reserve the soaking liquid. Slice the ham into large pieces.

Chop the chicken through the bones into serving pieces, using a kitchen cleaver, a mallet and kitchen scissors, if necessary. Cut the wings, thighs and drumsticks at the joints and slit the whole breast off from the back. Cut and discard the pinions, then halve each wing at the joint. Halve each thigh and drumstick crosswise. Halve the breast lengthwise, then cut each half crosswise into 3 or 4 pieces. Do not use the back; save it for the stockpot.

Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and add the chicken pieces. Return to a boil and continue to boil for about 2 minutes, so that the scum rises. Pour into a colander and rinse the chicken to get rid of any remaining scum.

Line the steam pot with the mushrooms, ham and chicken. Add the salt, pepper, ginger, scallions and wine or sherry. Add sufficient water (including the mushroom water) to come within 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) of the top of the chimney of the pot. Put the lid on.

Over moderate heat, place the steam pot on the rim of a small saucepan with boiling water inside, leaving a gap between the water level and the bottom of the steam pot. Cook for 1 to 1 1⁄4 hours without disturbing. Replenish the water in the saucepan from time to time, removing the steam pot to do so if necessary. Remove from the heat. Spoon off excess fat, if any, on the surface.

Take the steam pot to the dining table and serve from it. Use the soy sauce as a dip if you like.

Serves 6 with 3 other dishes.